Lab Grown Polki: What It Is and How It Differs from Traditional Polki

Polki is an uncut, unfaceted diamond set in its natural crystal form rather than cut into facets. Traditionally, Polki jewellery uses uncut natural diamonds. Lab grown Polki uses uncut lab grown diamonds instead. The material is chemically, physically and optically identical; what changes is that the origin of the stone is documented rather than assumed, which makes certification possible on a category where it usually is not.

What is Polki?

A Polki diamond has been cleaved and lightly polished but never faceted. Because the surface is left close to how the crystal formed, Polki has a soft, flat, milky lustre rather than the sharp fire of a brilliant cut.

That glow is the point of the stone, not a compromise. Polki is the older form of Indian diamond jewellery, predating the modern brilliant cut by centuries, and it is what most heirloom bridal sets in India are made from.

What is the difference between Polki, Kundan and Jadau?

These three words are used interchangeably in shops, and they should not be. They describe different things.

• Polki is the stone: an uncut, unfaceted diamond.
• Kundan is the setting technique: highly refined gold foil pressed around each stone to hold it, with no claws or prongs.
• Jadau is the craft of embedding stones into gold in this way, usually while the gold is soft.

A single piece can be all three: Polki diamonds, set with Kundan foil, using jadau work. The important consequence for a buyer is that the word Kundan tells you nothing about what the stones are. Kundan settings are used with glass, quartz and cubic zirconia just as readily as with diamond.

The problem with traditional Polki

Uncut natural diamonds are difficult to grade. The standard 4C system was designed for faceted stones, and an uncut crystal does not present cleanly for clarity or cut assessment. As a result, most traditional Polki is sold without any certificate at all.

That leaves a buyer relying entirely on the jeweller's word about three things: whether the stones are diamond at all, what they weigh, and what they are worth. For a bridal set costing several lakh, that is a considerable amount of trust.

It is also why resale and exchange on traditional Polki is usually poor. Without documentation, the next valuer starts from scratch.

What lab grown Polki changes

A lab grown uncut diamond is the same material as a natural uncut diamond. The difference is that its origin is known, which has three practical consequences.

• Certification becomes possible. The stones can be documented rather than taken on faith.
• Weight and content are verifiable. You know what you are buying and what it should be worth.
• Exchange terms can be stated in advance rather than negotiated later.

At Ivana Jewels, all Polki jewellery uses lab grown uncut diamonds, set in BIS hallmarked 14kt and 18kt gold using traditional jadau technique. The craft is unchanged. The traceability is not.

Does lab grown Polki look different?

No. Because the material is identical and the stone is uncut in both cases, there is no visual difference between a lab grown Polki and a natural Polki of comparable quality. The flat, glowing lustre that defines the category comes from the lack of faceting, not from the origin of the carbon.

What does affect appearance is the quality of the jadau work: how evenly the foil is pressed, how flush the stones sit, and how well the gold is finished behind them.

How is Polki priced?

Polki is priced on the weight and quality of the uncut diamonds plus the gold used in the setting. Jadau work uses considerably more gold than a claw setting, because the metal has to wrap each stone.

This is why Polki does not have a simple per-carat rate the way faceted diamond jewellery does. Each piece is built around the stones available, so prices vary widely even between pieces of similar size. Ivana Jewels recalculates prices daily against the prevailing gold rate.

How should Polki be cared for?

This matters more than with faceted jewellery, and getting it wrong is permanent.

• Never use an ultrasonic cleaner. Jadau settings have gold foil behind each stone. Ultrasonic vibration lifts the foil and the stone dulls immediately.
• Never soak in water. Moisture that gets behind the foil cannot be removed and permanently clouds the stone.
• Wipe with a dry, soft cloth only.
• Store pieces separately in cloth pouches. Polki surfaces scratch each other.
• Put jewellery on last when dressing, after perfume and hairspray.

The genuine limitations

Three things worth knowing before you buy, whichever type of Polki you choose.

• Polki cannot be exchanged against faceted diamonds, and faceted diamonds cannot be exchanged against Polki. The two are valued on different bases. This is true at Ivana Jewels and at most retailers, and it is worth confirming in writing before you buy.
• Loose Polki stones are not bought back or exchanged at Ivana Jewels. The value sits in the finished piece.
• Jadau work is slow. Made-to-order Polki takes 10 to 21 days because each stone is set by hand. If you are buying for a wedding date, either order well ahead or choose from stock.

What to ask before buying Polki

• Are the stones diamond, and are they natural or lab grown?
• Is there a certificate, and from which laboratory?
• What is the diamond weight, separately from the gross weight of the piece?
• Is the gold BIS hallmarked, and at what karat?
• What are the exchange and buyback terms, in writing?

A jeweller who answers all five plainly is one worth buying from. Hesitation on any of them is informative.

Frequently asked questions

Is Polki a real diamond?

Yes. Polki is diamond that has not been faceted. It is not glass, quartz or a simulant. The confusion usually arises because Kundan settings, which are associated with Polki, are also used with non-diamond stones.

Is lab grown Polki cheaper than natural Polki?

Generally yes, for the same diamond weight and comparable craft. The larger difference for most buyers is that lab grown Polki can be documented, which affects what it is worth later.

Can Polki be exchanged for diamond jewellery?

Not at Ivana Jewels, and not at most retailers. Polki exchanges against Polki, and faceted diamonds against faceted diamonds. Full terms are on our All Policies page.

Is Polki suitable for daily wear?

Rarely. Jadau settings are less robust than claw or bezel settings, and the foil behind the stones is vulnerable to moisture. Polki is occasion jewellery. For daily wear, a faceted diamond in a bezel setting is the more practical choice.

How do I know if Kundan jewellery contains real diamonds?

Ask directly, and ask for it in writing on the invoice. Kundan describes the setting, not the stone. If the seller cannot state what the stones are and produce documentation, assume they are not diamond.

Browse our Polki jewellery collection, or see pieces in person at any of our eleven showrooms in Delhi, Mumbai, Ahmedabad, Surat, Pune, Thane, Nagpur, Noida, Hyderabad and Mohali, open 10:30am to 9pm every day.